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By Stacey Harvey-Brown (textile designer and weaving tutor)
Hello and welcome to the June edition of Focus on Craft, brought to you by HotHive Textiles. This month we have been researching the wonderful world of weaving.
Contents
The origins of weaving
Inspiration from a weaver
Supplier information
A project
Further information and resources
Recommended reading
A competition
About weaving
In the simplest of terms, weaving entails the interlacing of warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) threads, usually at a right angle to create fabric. The various ways of doing this give you different ways to create patterns. Most need the warp to be kept in some kind of order and under some amount of tension.
The simplest forms of weaving include needle weaving, where you make a warp on something as basic as a piece of card, and then use a darning needle to interweave a weft thread across the warps. You can make things like a glasses case with this method (pictured left).
Read on for more information about weaving and some hints and tips to get you started if you are new to the technique.
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| Inspiration From Artists |
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Stacey Harvey Brown has been weaving for almost 20 years and has become known as the expert in the weaving industry. One of the highlights of her career was when she was commissioned by the Omani Government to set up a Weaving Workshop for the Public Authority for Craft Industries in Oman. The project, which took place last year, was for 60 students and her role was to set up the workshop with all equipment required for spinning, weaving, dyeing, felting and knitting. We spoke to Stacey to find out more about her work as a weaver and get her tips for those of you inspired to have a go at weaving yourselves.
If people are encouraged to take up weaving after reading the newsletter what looms and other equipment would you recommend to a beginner? A 4-shaft table loom is the ideal starting point. It's not too big, some versions can be folded and stored in a bag, and can be used either with a stand, or on a table. Other equipment includes a warping board (which can be made out of a frame and dowels), shuttles and a raddle (which separates out the warp and can easily be made from one piece of wood and some nails), a threading hook and a sleying hook.
For artists and designers who have experience in other crafts but haven’t necessarily tried weaving before, why would you recommend it? Weaving is incredibly versatile as you can see from the project I have created for HotHive Textiles (you can have a go at this further down the newsletter). It is also quite structured and so suits people who like parameters within which to work. I equate weaving to Bach – his music is so creative and pushes the boundaries of what you think is possible in music, yet it was created within parameters. So with weaving, the implied restrictions of warp and weft are starting points to fuel imagination and develop ideas.
Your love of weaving has taken you across many different countries – can you tell us about how the technique and people’s attitude towards it differs in each place you have worked?
Weaving techniques vary across the world, and yet in different pockets, hundreds of miles from each other, similar techniques pop up. With weaving there are really a few basic fundamentals from which everything else springs. Some countries lean more towards warp-faced weaving where all the design and colour is done in the warp – the vertical threads – and the weft is hardly seen (if at all) as in Oman where I worked last year. Other traditions focus on exactly the opposite, so you don't see the warp but all the creativity is done in the weft – sometimes through weaving flat, but sometimes by knotting (think Iran, Scandinavian rya). Other traditions feature balanced weaving, where both the warp and the weft are equally important and it's the relationship between the two elements that gives the design and colour. And of course many countries have a mix of these three basic forms.
As for people's attitudes, I think many cultures view their weaving traditions with a lot more pride than here in the west. The places I've been – US, Costa Rica, Europe (Italy and France mainly) and Oman – vary enormously. In the US, there seems to be a higher regard for crafts in general, but that could be because I know people who are educated about crafts. In Costa Rica, the traditional warp-faced weaving is done primarily by the indigenous peoples and is seen by others as heritage and living history. In Europe, especially in France and Italy where I've been most, jacquard weaving is still highly regarded, especially hand-woven velvet, but the general population is similar to the UK where many people have lost touch with how their fabrics are created and wonder why on earth we want to weave!! Oman was in the interesting position of wanting to re-invigorate its traditional weaving and diversify it so that youngsters might return to their roots and not move into the cities and blue-collar work. In Oman they are moving so fast into the modern world that there is a huge danger that their traditional crafts will disappear within our lifetime.
Can you tell me more about the workshops you run?
I mostly run residential weaving courses from my home and studio in the Staffordshire Moorlands. I have a range of looms and cater for everyone – from total beginners never having seen a loom before who just want to try it out, to advanced weavers who want to learn new skills or try their hand at jacquard weaving. I have four wonderful hand-jacquard looms from the 1880s which use punched cards so students learn how to design and cut the cards as well as weave the cloth! The courses vary from long weekends (Friday lunchtime to Monday lunchtime) to two weeks and start at £240 for a non-residential weekend.
I also give talks and workshops for weaving and embroiderers’ guilds, WIs and schools groups. Apparently, my website is required reading in some Yorkshire schools for students studying GCSE textiles!! I also get the chance to speak abroad and write articles. I'm currently writing one weaving book and researching another, so life is always interesting! Do visit my website ( www.theloomroom.co.uk) for more details on the courses and lectures and workshops. I'm always delighted to do what I can.
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| Supplier Information |
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One of the misconceptions about weaving and spinning is that the equipment is expensive and so a large outlay is required to give the crafts a try. Sarah Harris, owner of Spinning Wheel ( www.spinningweal.co.uk), a company who run classes and sell equipment needed for weaving, spinning and dyeing, dispelled this myth telling us, "The three essential pieces of equipment needed for spinning are a wheel, a spindle and some fibres so you don’t actually need much equipment to get started. You could begin spinning on a piece of dowel and one of the free CDs that come through the post all the time, which costs next to nothing. Fibres can be found easily out in the countryside, such as sheep’s wool that gets stuck on fences, gates and hedgerows meaning the only real cost is on the spindle."
Spinning and weaving are also great crafts as they are environmentally friendly. You don’t need electricity to power any of the machines and the equipment used all comes from sustainable resources, making them very popular crafts for the environmentally conscious. If you haven’t tried spinning or weaving before Sarah’s advice is to contact the Guild of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers, which you can read more about later in this feature. She explains, "The guild will put you in touch with your local group so you can meet like-minded crafters who will help you as you learn your craft."
Once you have decided spinning is for you how do you know which wheel to choose? Sarah advises, "Ashford wheels are my favourite and I have been using and recommending them long before I became a teacher. I have tried others but I always found the Ashford wheels to be the most accessible and easy to use."
The HotHive Textiles directory lists a whole host of suppliers who can help you with all your weaving and spinning needs. So if you need any further help with choosing the right materials for your projects then they will be very happy to assist you. You can browse through the suppliers listed here.
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| Project to Try |
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This month’s project will teach you how to make your very own set of woven placemats. These placemats will be a great addition to your garden table for your summer barbeque, or if the weather isn’t on our side they look just as fabulous indoors! To have a go at weaving your own placemats please click on the link below:
Woven placemat instructions
If you need to buy any of the materials listed for this project then please consult the HotHive Textiles suppliers directory here.
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| Further Information |
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For those of you wanting to learn more about weaving, spinning and dyeing then Janet Phillips’ classes could be the ideal solution for you. Janet has been a textile designer for over 30 years and her wealth of experience is an invaluable part of the courses she teaches. Courses are held in Janet’s studio near Henley-on-Thames, Oxford and cover a wide range of techniques including tapestry weaving, braid weaving, rug weaving and kilim weaving, alongside subjects such as using colour in weaving and understanding weave structures. New for this year Janet has introduced a computer-dobby weaving course for advanced weavers wanting to improve their skills.
Janet says, "The courses are all practical based and look at the techniques of weave structure, dyeing, spinning and felting. All levels are catered for and I tailor the courses to the level of knowledge the students have." If you would like to book a place on one of Janet’s courses, or request a course to be run at your next event, then Janet can be contacted at janetphillips@clara.co.uk or by telephone on 01491 641727. You can also find a full course programme at www.janetphillips-weaving.co.uk.
There is also a Guild for keen weavers and spinners, which is a great way to meet other people who enjoy the craft too. The Association of Guilds of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers aims to preserve and improve the craftsmanship in hand weaving, spinning and dyeing and promote public education in the crafts. Weavers who join their local guild will have the opportunity to meet other enthusiastic members who practise weaving and spinning and other related crafts such as felt making and braid making. Guild members benefit from an extensive programme of workshops, summer schools and a quarterly magazine for all those interested in weaving, spinning and dyeing, whether as a hobby or professionally.
If you would like to join the Guild then please visit www.wsd.org.uk to find your local organisation.
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| Recommended Reading |
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Start Spinning by Maggie Casey (£13.99)
This book covers all the basics newcomers need to know to spin their own fabulous yarn. The book begins with an introduction to the various types of fibres available, choosing and preparing (or buying) fibre with which to spin, and detailed instructions for both spinning on a spindle and spinning on a wheel. Maggie also offers a special section on troubleshooting and wheel maintenance, plus tips and tricks for creating better yarns. Then she moves into plying, setting twist, using a niddy noddy, and woolen and worsted spinning. Maggie concludes with a chapter on uses for spun yarn, which covers wraps per inch, measuring yards for projects and size of yarn.
For more information or to buy this book please click here.
Creative Spinning by Alison Daykin & Jane Deane (£12.99)
This book teaches you how to spin using drop spindles and spinning wheels and how to control singles, twists and ply. It is divided into chapters according to yarn type and each section includes projects with simple instructions and illustrations. The book is ideal for beginners and more experienced spinners alike and as you grow in confidence you will discover how to experiment with a variety of yarns, such as silk fibre, animal hair, vegetable fibre and how to use recycled products. There is no need for complicated equipment - a simple spinning wheel or spindle is all you need to get started.
For more information or to buy this book please click here.
Weaving Made Easy by Liz Gipson (£16.99)
Weaving Made Easy, makes weaving easy! It includes eighteen simple projects made on a simple rigid heddle loom. By reading this book you will learn how to make sinuous, drapey fabrics; sturdy, practical fabrics; fun, funky fabrics; and many more. Projects range from scarves and tops to bags and belts, from pillows and placemats to rugs and blankets. Each project includes complete instructions, clear step-by-step photographs, and abundant tips and techniques for colour, design, construction and embellishment – making this the ultimate ideas book for the would-be-weaver.
For more information or to buy this book please click here.
Designing Woven Fabrics by Janet Phillips (£31.95)
This book aims to give weavers the confidence to design their own original fabrics. The author, Janet Phillips, has over 30 years experience as a textile designer and teacher of weaving techniques, making this book a useful resource for any keen weaver. The book is based on an in-depth study developing the 2/2 twill weave structure, followed by a section discussing weave design criteria such as colour, yarn and sett, and finally a section containing step-by-step instructions to show the reader how to apply these techniques to their work. The book contains hundreds of colour photographs to demonstrate the techniques and really is a weaver’s bible.
For more information or to buy this book please click here.
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| Competition |
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This month we have a fantastic giveaway for those of you wanting to give spinning a try, with a beginners kit put together by Sarah Harris at Spinning Wheel. The kit contains 100g of Portland Wool, washed and carded; a hand spindle and full instructions to get you started.
For your chance to win, simply email your name and address to textiles@thehothive.com with ‘spinning’ in the subject line. The competition closes on 31 July and we will announce the winner on the website after this date. Good luck! |
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