Credit Crunching Fashion

Article Added: 07/05/2009 11:19:02
By Katie Powell

Autumn/Winter 2008/09 is set to be dominated by plaid, tartan and lace fabrics, a return to grown-up dressing, with ultra modern materials mixed with something softer and colours of faded gold, vibrant russets, chic neutrals, deep blues and purples. Hoisery is also set to take this season by storm, along with sweeping bows, embroidery, embellishments and even headscarves.

There has been a change in the collective thoughts on fashion too. As Vogue www.vogue.co.uk said, “Has the looming threat of recession fed into the collective fashion consciousness? It’s possible; many of the big shows – including Lanvin, Louis Vuitton and Chanel – placed their focus on sharp, slick, austere tailoring that will stand the test of make-do-and-mend time.”

There’s definitely a move towards more ethical shopping. Just mention the name Primark and you’re almost guaranteed to open up a debate amongst your fellow companions. There is no legislation to say that clothing labels must state where a garment has been made. Primark itself says, in it’s Q&A section on the corporate website, that one of the reasons why they do not state on their labels where their clothes have been made is because, “…our customers have not requested it.” Is it therefore about time that we, as consumers, more openly started to question the origins of our clothes? It’s the masses that can make a difference, so we should start now. Information is power and in this case, the more informed we are, the more choices we give ourselves in selecting ethical products. Do we really want poor quality clothing that will not last the season let along beyond and that will become part of the many tonnes of clothing waste that’s dumped each year? Surely the ‘stack it high, sell it cheap’ philosophy of some companies encourages consumers to be wasteful? Do all the clothes sold cheaply by Primark actually ever get worn? To say it’s a “complex issue” is true, but we must stop hiding behind this argument and try and get to the bottom of it all.

With the dubious origins of clothing now being questioned and our money needing to go further, is there a move towards quality, better fitting, longer lasting fashions, rather than the cheap, throwaway items that have been a recent high street fixture? HotHive Textiles member Alison Smith of the Alison Victoria School of Sewing thinks so. “Each year we have more and more students enrolling on our courses. We are finding that many customers are returning to sewing in order to have garments that fit properly and are different. Customising clothes is also popular. I think there is a move away from disposable fashion. With money for most being tight, people are looking now at quality to last and not quantity. The ethical side of cheap clothes production also causes concern to some.”

So, how can we go about creating this season’s key trends without a couture-sized budget? We have style gurus like Gok Wan to point us in the right direction. There is also a wealth of aladdin’s cave-esque fabric and haberdashery shops out there, with stashes of tempting offerings to make even the least creative amongst us to reach for a needle and thread. One such treasure trove is MacCulloch and Wallis, who told us, “Right now we are selling a lot of printed polka-dot cotton poplin in bright colours and also a very useful frill trim which comes in plain colours and is a relatively cheap way of getting an outfit on trend. Popular with Gok on his new show.”

We’ve been talking to people in the know about how to create key season looks on a budget…

Bunyip Beads and Buttons told us, “We do seem to have a lot more customers who are buying buttons to re-invent a piece. We are finding that a lot of aqua/blue/green is selling at the moment, along with buttons, chunkier glass and shell.”

“Embroidery is very fashionable at the moment and beautiful pieces can be seen in all of the big fashion houses and on the high street this season. I do think people are becoming more aware that with a few small changes to a piece of clothing, they can make clothes from last season completely up-to-date for this one. A few simple embellishments on the neckline, hem or cuff can make all the difference! To create an on-trend piece I would recommend letting your imagination run wild, use vivid colours and dare to make a statement - there is no limit to what you can do with some quick stitching!”, said Wendy Credland of The Silk Mill

Ruth Cox, embroiderer extraordinaire told us, “I think it’s a natural step when times get tough for people to become more inventive and creative. At its simplest level you can embellish a garment using nothing more than a needle and embroidery thread, and if a sewing machine is available so much the better! People are realising that ribbons, trims, buttons and oddments of lace cost very little and with a few basic sewing skills can transform a garment from bland to beautiful. Look at the catwalk collections that appear in magazines and on designers’ websites at the start of each season and work out which silhouettes are current. Also remember that items made from natural fibres can easily be dyed for an instant update. Then look at the trims and details for ideas on how to recreate ‘the look’ because it is as this level that you can really capture the essence of what makes something appear completely new and fresh.”

Beads Unlimited gave us an insight into what we should be making to be on-trend this season – “People always want to stamp their individual mark on a particular piece, whether clothing, jewellery or accessories. The beauty of beads is that they can encompass all levels of expertise and cost, all you need is an idea and a few pence in your pocket. Handbag clips and mobile phone accessories both remain extremely popular. Handbags can be offset with bold statements created with striking pieces of individually hand made glass or subtly enhanced with the myriad of hues. Anything from the simply basic to the simply eccentric can be produced in only a couple of minutes.”

For a video from Beads Unlimited about how to make accessories using beads, log on to:
http://www.beadsunlimited.co.uk/home/articleview.php?id=12

Here are a few credit crunch busting ideas for creating on trend pieces without breaking the bank:

·    Couture dressmakers never show the seams of a dress. Use luxurious ribbon and trimmings to hide seams on your favourite party frock.
·    Re-design a cardigan by replacing buttons, or using beads instead.
·    Add unique designs to your clothes using either machine or hand embroidery.
·    Do more dressmaking. Peruse pattern catalogues for this season’s styles and them make up your favourites in sumptuous fabrics at a fraction of the designer price.

Remember – be savvy. Choose clothes that are well made in good quality fabrics and that won’t be out of fashion by the time you’ve got them home and taken them out of the bag. Customise clothes for your own unique style, as well as to create on-trend pieces at a fraction of the price.

CONTACT DETAILS
All the companies featured in this article are listed on HotHive Textiles.

Alison Victoria School of Sewing
The School of Sewing, Alison Smith, 71 Market Street, Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire, LE65 1AH
Tel: 01530 416300
Email: bookings@schoolofsewing.co.uk
www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

Beads Unlimited
PO Box 1, Hove, BN3 3SG
Tel: 01273 740777
mailbox@beadsunlimited.co.uk
for mail order & enquiries
or visit their shop: The Brighton Bead Shop, 21 Sydney St, Brighton, BN1 4EN
Tel: 01273 675077

Bunyip Beads & Buttons
Units 7-10, McCoys Arcade, Fore Street, Exeter, Devon, EX4 3AN
Tel: 01392 437377
Email:info@bunyipbeads.com
www.bunyipbeads.com

MacCulloch & Wallis Ltd
25-26 Dering Street, London, W1S 1AT
Tel: 020 7629 0311
Email: macculloch@psilink.co.uk
www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk

Ruth Cox Training
Tel: 07527 557095
Email: ruthcoxtraining@yahoo.co.uk
www.ruthcoxtraining.com

The Silk Mill
Lenwade Mill, Lenwade, Norwich, NR9 5QA Norfolk
Tel: 01603 308966
Email: wendycredland@thesilkmill.com / contact@thesilkmill.com
www.thesilkmill.com