African Textiles

Article Added: 22/07/2009 13:37:21
By Jenny Lewis

Africa is a vast and often politically troubled continent wracked by poverty, famine and hardship. The colours that we associate with India or Indonesia are generally not found in Africa and the whole textiles ethos of Africa is mirrored in its landscape and culture. The vibrant colours used in African textile work are often reflections of the brown earth and deep blue sky. However, adornment is of prime importance and beadwork, shells, necklaces, bangles, headgear and anklets add that personal touch that gives a nation its identity. But what of the weavers, dyers and textiles artists?

Cloth has indeed spanned this diverse continent in an amazing range of styles. African peoples have woven textiles to cover their nakedness, unlike Western countries who have frequently created clothing for pleasure, in an over-indulgent excess way beyond their need.

In previous centuries, cloth in Africa was used as a form of currency, and textiles were exchanged for other goods, being durable, easily measured and divisible. Of course, people were exploited when they were slaves and their goods sold to the white man. Things have changed, but poverty has not and African textiles have thankfully not marched ahead but have remained intrinsically ‘native’. Natural fibres are still grown, spun, dyed and woven into strips of various widths for loose fitting garments, and cotton is still grown from the parched soil to make clothing. Natural dyes are generally used, but, as in other countries, synthetic dyes are slowly taking over.

Textile making in Africa is far more than a craft – it is an occupation. In the West we make textiles for our enjoyment – in African they are produced as a necessity. Africa may have much to learn from the West, but also we can learn to treasure our gifts in a more natural and relaxing way by looking at textile-making in Africa.

With the increase in holidays abroad, plus Internet shopping, African textiles have become far more a part of Western life than ever before. It is visually exciting to be able to embellish one’s home with genuine African artefacts. The textiles makers have been liberated and now individual communities are able to make an income by selling their wares to the west. We see settees covered with tribal throws, bedspreads in beautifully woven Ikat, up-market clothing and bags, as well as curtains and wall hangings in our homes.

Sometimes it is good to put down our own work – which we make from an extraordinary choice of hands-on craft books – and read about the crafts of other cultures. A newly-published book by John Gillow, called African Textiles, allows us to do just that. When I first perused the 570 photographs, I was immediately struck by the fact that, whether we are rich or poor, the desire to make something beautiful is inherent in all peoples.

The book is divided into five sections which cover the immense collage of African peoples; their culture and life. It also includes the diversity of colour, materials and creativity of the so called “Dark Continent”. The text is detailed and very descriptive of each craft and covers the following: tie and dye, strip weaving, tapestry weaves, Yoruba and Ndebele beadwork, starch resist, ikat, stitch resist, wax resist, Zulu beadwork, leatherwork, feathered hats and extremely humorous crocheted hats from Cameroon. Also covered is shell work, cut-pile embroidery, raphia weaving, bark cloth, calligraphy cloth, cotton shawls and the exquisite embroidery of Ethiopia, as well as the unique woven silk strips from Madagascar.

This lovely book is a visual feast which enriches our knowledge of the textile crafts of Africa, and enabling us to understand the roots and origins of our own textiles which are so often taken for granted.

African Textiles by John Gillow is published by Thames & Hudson and retails at £24.95. It can be ordered from the HotHive Textiles bookstore here.

Images taken from African Textiles by John Gillow, published by Thames & Hudson. Photographs taken by James Austin.